The Best Types of Outdoor Fire Pits

By Jeff Horn

The concept of having an outdoor fire pit is not really new. Traditionally, these decorative yet useful pieces were not so glamorous, in fact they consisted of a hole in the ground. Today, they have come a long way from their simple original version, offering potential customers a decorative and functional addition to their existing outdoor landscape. Types of outdoor fire pits can be numerous, but here are some of the most popular.

Tile & Stone

Many fire pit enthusiasts prefer a more refined and permanent type that blends in to the natural flow of the surrounding structures. The tile and stone types offer that convenience. Sizes vary from large landscape pieces to a smaller accessory, they can be tailored to the size limitations of urban or rural residences. Generally, the fire pits size should not exceed three feet.

These should also be a safe distance away from any structures, and before building one, be sure to check with the appropriate city office to determine if having one of these violates ordinances or fire codes.

The type of construction material used is crucial in determining long-term durability. For example, using granite, due to its non-porous qualities, will likely mitigate any cracking or major degradation to the fire pit. On the other hand, choosing a brick or other porous stone may put more risk to the overall integrity of the unit.

Metal or Steel

Steel fire pits take on a shape of their own. Many of these have a decorative and unique design that is ideal for allowing proper ventilation or admiring the fire dancing within the bowl itself.

There are basically two ways to go when it compares to metal or steel versions. A metal/steel bowl and a steel ring. Metal bowls are probably the most popular. They typically have 4 legs and are best suited for placement on the dirt or grass (since the metal can get really hot, it is not recommended to put on wood decks or other potentially flammable surfaces.

Propane or Gas

These are somewhat similar to their popular household BBQ counterparts. A gas or propane fire pit is simple and clean to own and maintain, and a typical kit comes with the special logs, hook ups, and rocks for decoration. Companies famous for their propane tanks (i.e. Blue Rhino) have entered the market to create good quality gas versions.

An immediate benefit to using gas pits is the obvious simplicity to use, quick cleanup and maintenance, and less restrictions when placing one in close spaces (since sparks and uncontrollable flames are not a huge issue). The downside of using this type is that it won’t likely be as warm as the log fire versions, but then again, it also won’t leave you smelling like smoke afterward.

Summary

All these choices offer a unique experience and you can’t really go wrong with any of these. Choosing the right one for you is based on personal preference or outdoor limitations.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/6323919

So what ever you choose to build your fire pit out of please be sure to take all of the safety precautions when planning, building, and enjoying your piece. It’s also not a bad idea to have a fire extinguisher handy just in case. I know it may be unsightly, but it could prevent you from having ONLY a fire pit to enjoy.

Until next time happy building and please check out our website for different fire pit and fireplace options to add to your outdoor room! www.Whiz-Q.com

Derek Whisenand

When we signed on to partner with Unilock a few years ago, we had already had a wonderful look on the design aspects and technology that the company brought to the paver industry. It is because of these extra efforts, that they are able to show various uses of product that only the imagination can tame. Unilock calls them “accents.”

Whether the accents come in forms of a color band in a wall of paver walkway, or if it is a completely different product sunken into a field of pavers, accents are what help to bring elegance and uniqueness to the project.

In our displays we have implemented many of the different “accents” that Unilock and Pavestone products have to offer. Differences in texture, shape, size, and color play an important part when coming up with that one off design plan. The easiest and most popular way to implement accents in pavements and hardscapes is to install what is called a “Paving Stone Carpet.” What is that you might ask? A “Carpet” is when different styles, shapes, or colors of pavers are used in a living area to create what would mimic a decorative area rug indoors.

With the use of different styles of pavers, carpets are installed and professionally cut into the existing field area of pavers and stone to create and designate a certain area. The following was found on Unilock’s blog site that explains the use of carpets and what they add to a hardscape plan.

In the last eight years, what used to be simply a flat paver patio, has evolved into the creation of decorative and functional outdoor living spaces. Various elements of interior design are increasingly being incorporated into outdoor design. Just like in a home where the flooring will change to re-create a feeling or define a function, so can the pavers used within your outdoor room.

Let’s stop and think. What basic questions do you ask yourself when designing an interior room? The first thing you should look at is your space and what you are trying to accomplish. Is the room used as a gathering space or a quiet corner for relaxing? Base your decisions on your personal preferences about colors, textures, fabrics, furnishings and décor. One of the most important aspects of any room is the flooring. Consider the flooring you have in your kitchen, your living room or your entrance way. You may have some distinct flooring designs that help define those particular spaces and their function within the home. Why did you select carpet, wood or rugs for the various rooms? These flooring decisions define the room.

A term I hear a lot concerning this new design trend is “paver rugs”. What is a “paver rug”? A paving stone rug is a designed inset within an existing paver area. It is generally done with complementary colors and products. It’s a lot of fun to personalize your outdoor room. Within the rug area, use different products with unique textures, stone like appearances, and bold colors. They can be laid in different patterns to help define the area and add visual interest.

Many times outdoor rooms also have areas defined by vertical features as well, like seat walls, pillars, outdoor kitchens,water features, fire pits, and fireplaces. These features are great for helping you choose complementary products and colors for these distinct accents.

Aside from aesthetics, paver stone carpets can also be designed for function. For example, in a grilling or dining area,stain-resistant pavers are a logical choice and make for easy cleaning. You could complement that popular sunken fire pit or fireplace area with natural stone-like pavers that enhance that intimate outdoor feeling.

So when designing an outdoor space, take it to the next level and add a personal touch with paving stone carpets.

The use of Copthorne adds elegance to what would be a rather “bland” space inside of the beautiful Umbriano field.

So when you look at planning your hardscape area, remember the use of “carpets” and “accents” to create a uniqueness to your project.

To see “accents” and “carpets” in use, be sure to check our Whiz-Q’s Lifestyle Gardens Display at Whiz-Q Stone in Fort Worth, Texas. For directions or a virtual tour, check out www.Whiz-Q.com.

Until next time,

Derek Whisenand

Hardscape design professionals generally do almost everything that a traditional landscaper does — getting dirt under their fingernails on a daily basis — but they add another element on top of the usual topiary, garden, and lawn details.

Hardscape design is exactly what it sounds like: making and executing a plan to use ‘hard’ materials such as concrete, brick, timber, metal (usually iron or copper) and the like to beautify an environment. Some hardscape design professionals also readily incorporate water features into their designs, as most fountains and such are ‘hard’ materials in the first place.

Landscaping makes most Americans think of cut grass, immaculate flowerbeds, and trimmed bushes arranged under trees whose leaves are meticulously raked up and disposed of once a week all autumn long. But as hardscaping becomes more popular countrywide (not only because it’s new and different, but because it’s easier to maintain as well) the idea of what it means to have your house ‘scaped’ is changing rapidly.

Hardscaping doesn’t stop there, however — many hardscape design professionals will also readily draw up plans for a patio, a barbeque pit, a deck, walkways, decorative retaining walls, exotic fences and gains, and even artistic sculptures as well! The applications of hardscape design are as varied and beautiful as any live garden — just more permanent. But don’t think that hard means large — hardscapers will just as readily put together small details in an otherwise ‘soft’ environment. For example, having a Japanese-style concrete lantern or a copper Foo dog set up to grace your backyard is right up a hardscaper’s alley.

Of course, any real project is going to have both hardscaping and ‘softscaping’ elements. Many hardscape design professionals started as traditional landscapers, so they can address both elements easily, but if you’re working with a dedicated hardscaper, you may need to call in a more traditional landscape designer and have the two collaborate.

The first big question they need to answer is ‘what comes first’? If you begin with the landscaping, the hardscaping itself — which can be fairly intensive- labor and equipment wise — can damage the plants and soft terrain. For this reason, starting with the hardscaping is usually wiser.

Once that decision is reached, it’s time to design. Most people find that it’s aesthetically pleasing to use the hardscape design elements to contrast either the building itself or the softscaped areas. As most modern houses are rigid, straight lines with somewhat visually harsh elements, hardscaping design professionals often suggest gentle, curved lines and rounded corners to contrast the house itself. In a natural, highly landscaped environment, however — especially one that conceals the house from view — it may be more effective to utilize straight lines and right angles to separate the hardscaping from the natural world around it.

So no matter what your project entails or what you are trying to create, by planning your outdoor area on paper first and establishing a hardscape design plan, your project will not only look amazing, but you will spend less effort and have less headaches in the completion process.

Remember as always, if you are looking for design help, inspiration for your outdoor room, or you just need some assistance planning, choosing product or installation methods, please do not hesitate to give Whiz-Q Stone in Fort Worth, Texas a call or visit our website at www.Whiz-Q.com.

Until next time,

Derek Whisenand
Hardscape Specialist

Wars and broken romances have one thing in common – collateral damage! The love affair between saltwater pool owners and natural stone may suffer the same fate if a bit of common sense isn’t applied.

Salt can do nasty stuff to stone! The gnarled and heavily etched rock surfaces on the headlands of any Sydney surfing beach is testament to the power of salt, wind and wave action. Look very closely and you will discover an unassailable truth – some sandstone is amazingly resilient to nature’s wildest forces while other types succumb horribly.

Stone survival on any coastline is very Darwinian – the strong survive and the weak disappear. The performance of stone paving material varies in the same way. Poor quality material doesn’t last. This is especially so around saltwater pools. Traditionally chlorinated pools pose little risk to natural stone.

Salt can cause devastating damage to just about any building material whether it is metal, concrete or stone. Some stone is quite resistant to salt attack – a property that can be determined quite easily by laboratory testing. Some stone suppliers invest heavily in testing their stone to ensure that the product used is fit for the intended purpose. Businesses that provide this information deserve praise and are worthy of support, because too much poor quality stone is being sold by too many shoddy operators.

Salt water pools and sea spray in coastal areas can threaten some stone surfaces. Damage ranges from pitting and flaking through to delamination. Sealing will reduce the movement of salt laden moisture into the stone sub surface where most of the damage occurs. Regularly hosing down wet areas around a pool is the best prevention of all. Increasingly though, concerns about saving water or forgetfulness expose the stone to risk.

Sometimes salt damage occurs because of poor sub-surface drainage around the pool. Many soils are quite saline especially in the subsoil. After rain, soluble salts may rise to the surface permeating the stone from the under-surface. As the stone dries the salt forms crystals that expand in the tiny pores of the stone causing physical damage to the structure of the stone. In these cases salt damage to the stone is usually incorrectly attributed to the pool.

It is vital that stone is laid on properly drained surfaces (substrates) preferably with a waterproof membrane. This will eliminate the threat from below.

Sometimes damage to the stone has been caused by applying an inappropriate sealant. This comes as the biggest shock of all to homeowners because they think they have done the right thing by sealing. It is arguably better not to seal stone exposed to salt than to apply a surface sealer.

Surface sealers can trap soluble salts under the bonded surface layer. Once dry, the crystallised salt can exert such force to the upper layer of stone that it delaminates and flakes off.

If stone tiles are used around salt water pools, only penetrating sealers should be considered as they allow moisture if any exists, to escape from below the sealant film in the form of vapour. This doesn’t happen with surface sealants.

Stone that is laid around the edges of the pool and for two or three layers back from the pool edge should be sealed on all six sides to prevent salt penetration. Adhesives should be used uniformly with no air pockets and grout joints should achieve a 100% coverage so that moisture carrying soluble salt has no chance of penetrating the stone.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Sandy_S_Yeates

“I asked the customer for a minute, alone with the boulder. I then communicated the story of the valley of Ellah. The boulder began to weep, and then spoke. Saying how it would be willing to accept it’s new home.
I then made a pledge to let his family know that he was in a better place. The boulder smiled and became as light as cotton candy. I quickly set it with my hands, before the customer could see.
The customer came out of the house, and was floored. The customer then offered me fine meats and cheeses. I denied the gifts, and said. I was given this gift, but it comes with a curse.
As the customer began to kneel. I said, my curse is that it only works after nine in the morning.”

So many times do I see do-it-yourselfers and some contractors for that matter skimp on the foundation of any great hardscape project. Just remember as you begin to build the lifestyle of your dreams in your backyard, the beauty is only going to last as long as the foundation it sits on.

Especially in Texas, we have a lot of clay soils. While these clay like soils are tough to dig and represent a hard, stable ground, they are all but not. Not to get too scientific, clay like soils act in a “heaving” and “contracting” matter. This means that as the soils absorb water they grow and swell. Being consisted mainly of clay, these soils tend to hold the water for long lengths of time, which in turn makes the soils moveable and very unstable.

In every installation whether it be a patio or retaining wall, a compacted base is neccessary. The material you use for a base may vary from project to project. For instance if you are looking to do a large flagstone patio where you plan to entertain and dine, you may want to pour a “scratch” cement base using Portland cement. However, if you are looking to do a concrete paver instead, then the base of choice would result in using a compacted aggregate and a bedding layer of sand.

While the material used for a base will result in the project and product being used, it is safe to say that any and all hardscape projects need to first be planned accordingly as well as taking all of the neccessary steps to ensure that the project will stand the test of time and offer many years of enjoyment. With the proper base preparation to any project, you will be loving your landscape worry free year after year.

For additional assistance in figuring the proper base material for your project or if you are seeking help to determine estimating or choosing product, please give us a call at 800-648-4551 or visit our website http://www.whiz-q.com/. We will be glad to help you Build the Lifestyle of Your Dreams.

-Derek Whisenand

Whiz-Q partnered with Pavestone to sponsor this energy efficient home. The TimberCreek Zero House was the official Show House of the 2009 Sunbelt Builders Show™. The TimberCreek Zero Energy House is a 2500 square foot demonstration project for the Department of Energy’s “Building America” program to encourage homeowners and builders to take the next step in living and building in a more fiscally and environmentally sensible manner.
Steve Akin, CDC Sales for Pavestone, submitted the two Pavestone videos at the link below. Steve says that perm paving is the wave of the future, both in harvesting rainwater and controling flow into city sewage systems.

Pavestone Surfaces and Pervious Driveway

Backyard Pavestone

All Zero Energy Videos: The TimberCreek Zero Energy House Videos

Whiz-Q partnered with Pavestone to sponsor this energy efficient home. The TimberCreek Zero House was the official Show House of the 2009 Sunbelt Builders Show™. The TimberCreek Zero Energy House is a 2500 square foot demonstration project for the Department of Energy’s “Building America” program to encourage homeowners and builders to take the next step in living and building in a more fiscally and environmentally sensible manner.

Steve Akin, CDC Sales for Pavestone, submitted the two Pavestone videos at the link below.  Steve says that perm paving is the wave of the future, both in harvesting rainwater and controling flow into city sewage systems.

Pavestone Surfaces and Pervious Driveway

Backyard Pavestone

All Zero Energy Videos: The TimberCreek Zero Energy House Videos

We have recently taken a step toward exellence. In partnering with Unilock, we will be able to provide customers with the one of a kind excellence in outdoor living products.

Unilock has established its name mainly in the northern part of the United States with their revolutionary pavers, walls, and other outdoor hardscape products. With a heavy influence on accent banding and accessories, Unilock branded products will be able to offer trends and designs that has gone unseen in the southern market.

In conjunction with Whiz-Q Stone’s other branded outdoor living product lines, Unilock branded products fits in with the outdoor lifestyle that we convey in our marketing and displays. With the use of other products that we have to offer, Unilock pavers and seating walls will compliment any patio or outdoor living space. With one of a kind textures and patterns, the outdoor lifestyle will just become more appealing.

In addition to the concrete pavers and wall stone, we will also be offering a line of products called “Unilock Elements.” This product line includes pre-manufactured fireplaces, sitting walls, columns, grill islands and bars, waterwall features and much more. The pre-manufactured pieces are made with the same Unilock products that can be installed in the patio, giving the entire outdoor space a consistent feeling. The units are very easy to install and can transform a backyard into a paradise in the matter of days. 

Be sure to check out our website (http://www.whiz-q.com/) as we will be adding all of the Unilock Select and Unilock Elements products. We are excited to bring in these products as they will help in you creating the Lifestyle of Your Dreams.

-Derek Whisenand

Flagstone has long been a desired product when speaking of outdoor patios or walkways. The rustic appearance of the product and the extreme durability of the stone make it hard for any wood, composite, or concrete material to compare to. Flagstone has been used for centuries to build roads, patios, courtyards, walkways, etc. While the dependability of the stone makes it a good choice for landscaping, the colors and textures that nature has to offer make it an exceptional alternative to concrete.

The term “flagstone” has become more of a general term in stone. The actual definition of “flagstone” describes stone from nature that has been split into flat, irregular pieces and shapes ranging in thickness from ¼” to somewhere around 3”. Due to flagstone being a product of nature, it comes in many different types of stone; most commonly sandstone. By the type and color of your flagstone, as well as the method you choose to install it, you will achieve different looks and textures with your outcome.

Setting Flagstone in Soil

Setting natural flagstone in native soil is the simplest way to create a flagstone patio or walkway. This method takes less material and preparation because you are basically setting the stones in the areas that you dig out. This method will yield less formal results and not exactly be the method for an outdoor kitchen or and active patio.

To do this you simply dig out the areas that you wish for the stone to be. After the area has been dug out, you simply set the stones into the excavated area, digging out soil until the surface of the stone is level with the ground. After the stones have been set into the excavated area, take the dirt that was dug out to create the patio, and fill the joints between the stones.

This particular installation will require that you use a flagstone that I no less than 2” thick. This method is generally used when a homeowner wishes to have plants or grass grow in the areas between the stones. The stones can be set as close or as far apart as you wish.

Setting Flagstone in Sand

While the internet and DIY guides show hot to install flagstone using sand underneath the stones and between the stones, Whiz-Q Stone does not recommend this installation what so ever.

We have found that the sand does not stay between the stones and washes out upon a rainstorm or even in lawn irrigation. To achieve this look, we recommend that you use polymeric sand which will actually harden between the stones, making it less susceptible to exit the joints between pieces of flagstone.

Setting Flagstone in Mortar on Bottom

This method is a century old method generally used by the English. This process involves laying a substructure of a compacted base material of decomposed granite, using mortar underneath each stone for leveling. This process will also prevent the stone from sliding or shifting around when being walked on. After the pieces of stone are set in mortar, polymeric sand, decomposed granite or gravel is used in the joints.

To do this type of installation, you first want to excavate out the area you wish the flagstone to be intstalled at a depth of 6-8 inches. This is so you have enough depth for 3-4 inches of decomposed granite for a base, 1 inch of mortar, and a 2 inch thick flagstone.

Once the area has been excavated, bring in the decomposed granite, compacting at a depth of 2 inches at a time. *Do not compact more than 2 inches of decomposed granite at a time. Also remember to slope the sub-base away from the house for drainage purposes. Generally this is done using a ratio for ever 5 feet away from the house, dropping the patio by at least 1 inch. Once your base has been compacted, lay the stones out over the area to see how they will fit.

After laying the stone over the area, mix your mortar and begin to apply approximately a 1 inch thick bed underneath each stone. Use the mortar to make sure that each stone remains level with the stones next to it. Continue this for each stone throughout the area. *Remember to use a 4’ level to check to make sure that the area is level across a series of stones.

Once the area has been set with mortar, use decomposed granite, gravel, or polymeric sand to sweep into the joints between the pieces of flagstone.

This type of installation is ideal for landing areas, walkways, of sitting areas. Generally, this method is still not recommended for large living areas or outdoor kitchens.

Setting Flagstone in Mortar on Top of Concrete

Laying flagstone over concrete is the most preferred method of installing stone. It last longer, hold up to larger amounts of traffic or heavy furniture to grills, and provide a smooth surface to entertain on. While this installation is the most challenging, it will yield the best results and last the longest.

This method can be tricky, so looking for professional help is not a bad thing.

If you have existing concrete to lay flagstone atop of, then the hard part of this process is over. Just remember to check for height restrictions at doors and gates. It is also recommended to clean the slab and apply a bonding agent to help the mortar adhere to the surface.

If you do not have a concrete patio, then you can use a Portland Cement and remix to pour your own. This is virtually an easy process that can be done either using a wheel barrel or a cement mixer. To pour your own cement to lay flagstone atop of, excavate out the area at a depth of approximately 4” (keep in mind that the height of the flagstone will range from 1” – 1 ½”, so if you are trying to match a certain height you may have to excavate 5” – 5 ½”).

Once the area has been excavated, begin to mix the Portland Cement carefully following the instructions on the bag. For smaller pedestrian traffic, you can use a wire grid to lay in your concrete. For larger applications, rebar might be necessary. Once the wire grid has been laid in the area, begin to spread the concrete evenly over the area just as you would gravel. Periodically use a shovel or a pick to pull the wire grid up so that it is in the middle of the cement being poured. Continue doing this until the entire area is filled with concrete. Now make sure the concrete is level and give it 24 hours to set up.

Once the concrete has set up, it is time to lay flagstone. Do this by first laying out the flagstone in small sections at a time to ensure fitment. Once a small area has been laid out, mix your mortar in a wheel barrel and begin to mortar underneath each stone using a shovel. Lay each stone in the mortar pressing firmly in a back and fourth motion to eliminate any air gaps between the stone and mortar. Continue by laying other stones around the first, fitting each stone together like a jig-saw puzzle. You can rearrange the stones and shape each one to fit just how you want. Try to keep all the joints fairly common in size throughout the entire project.

As you continue laying the stone, begin sot “tuck” mortar in the joints between each stone. This can be done using a trowel and basically by packing mortar into the void space between the stones. The mortar can be brushed away and cleaned once it has set up. In this step, you are simply ensuring that the entire void has been filled with mortar and there are no empty spaces present. Continue to do this over the patio, checking the consistency and set up of mortar you had previously done.

To check to see if the mortar can be brushed and finished, use your finger to brush across the mortar. If the mortar smears, then it still needs time to dry. If it crumbles like cheese, then it is ready to be brushed. You can brush the joints using a wisk broom, a sponge, or wire brush. The smoothness of the mortar joint is a personal preference. Basically start in one end and brush each joint, knocking off any excess mortar. This will make your joints look professional and more appealing. One this is done, try to stay off the area for at least 24 hours before using it.

The installation method will give you the most permanent results, and it installed correctly will last for many years of enjoyment.

If you have any other questions about installation, product selection, or any general issues, please feel free to contact Whiz-Q Stone at 817-429-0822 or toll free at 800-648-4551. We have more how-to’s and calculators on our website at www.Whiz-Q.com.